
This is our Nearly-Completed
FS1 DYNO ENGINE! It's Now a RUNNER!
We've built the engine with a big bore 43mm cylinder which has modified ports.
The head has been machined to give a better squish clearance,
and the combustion chamber altered so we can run on ordinary, unleaded fuel.
Also fitted is an electronic ignition stator, married to the original FS1 flywheel.
And it seems to work very well!
As you can see in the photo, we've manufactured a special bellmouth for the carburettor
which will enable us to more easily note improvement when we dyno.
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We're in the process of rebuilding an FS1E engine
to develop and test more products for your Fizzy. So, this session, we'll be covering a Helicoil
repair for a problem we encountered during our rebuild.
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A very common problem with the Fizzy can be stripped threads in the crankcase
which hold the cylinder studs (see picture at left).
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We already have the helicoil repair kit, but decided to make up a simple jig so we could
end up with a job really well done. The jig is a block of steel -- about 1-1.5 inches deep, long enough
to fit over the crankcase mouth, and a width of approximately 1-1.5 inches. It has ¼” hole, accurately
drilled, so it’s all squared to the bottom face of the jig. (And it just so happens that our helicoil set recommends the damaged hole to be drilled out to ¼”!)
Drilling the jig was no problem, as we have a pillar drill. However, our hand drill was not around; so,
undaunted, I ground a square on the end of the ¼” drill bit and was able to use our tap wrench for the
driving medium (see photo at left for Rex in action with the drill jig).
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Here, now that the drilling is complete, you can see the tap being used to form the oversized
thread (which will accept the helicoil). To keep the tap square, a hole was drilled to keep the threaded
portion of the tap supported, while the upper portion of the jig was drilled larger to suit the diameter of
the shank (upper section of the tap).
This made it so easy! In the past, having attempted to do this “by eye,” and sometimes failing, I realised this
simple correction would bring a much better end result.
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And here it is -- the completed helicoil repair, as good as new!
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